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September 12, 2021

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Christopher John Rogers Is Making the Most Elegant Clothes for Self-Expression

It's been a big year for Christopher John Rogers, and the 2021 American Womenswear Designer of the Year is closing it out on a high note by dropping a new collection that will surely delight his fans and customers, or anyone who likes to look at pretty things. For Collection 009, Rogers continued to build on and evolve his namesake brand's codes and signatures. The designer honed in on his customer — "individualists who continue to seek the tools Rogers creates for a carving out autonomy and self-expression," per the collection notes — and thought about the tools he wished he'd had in his youth. He reflected on growing up in the South and the preppy-ness, propriety and pulled-together-ness that dictated how people were expected to dress, and married that aesthetic with more idiosyncratic influences: "an early adolescence spent surfing online forums, navigating video games and perusing for individuality in secondhand shops," as well as paper balls, tra...

Wes Gordon Wants Every Woman to Feel Like a Superhero in Carolina Herrera

Wes Gordon will be the first to admit that there's a bit of pressure helming not only one of America's biggest fashion houses, but one whose founder is still very much present. "It's a personal responsibility I feel towards her — you know, every piece of clothing that we ship has her name on it," he says. "I try not to dwell on it or think about it. Instead, I approach my day in a series of a million little decisions, and each one of those I make from my heart and my eye to be what I think is the best answer." The "her" here is, of course, Carolina Herrera — Mrs. Herrera, if you'd like to show the proper deference to the fashion icon — who stepped down from her eponymous brand in 2018. She named Gordon, then only 31 years old and himself the founder of his own twice-CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund- nominated label, as her successor. He had been serving as a consultant for the House of Herrera for some months beforehand, but being handed the reins w...

Kim Jones Makes His Ready-to-Wear Debut at Fendi

Just under a month ago, designer Kim Jones made his debut as creative director of Fendi with an haute couture collection which paid tribute to the Bloomsbury Set. But fashion moves fast, and on Wednesday, Jones presented his first ready-to-wear collection for the Italian brand. For Fall 2021, Jones looked to the five Fendi sisters for inspiration, drawing from their wardrobes for a collection packed with deceptively simple basics. By keeping the color palette limited to neutrals — tawny and chocolatey browns, creamy whites and beiges, dove greys and olive greens, sophisticated blacks — he was able to really show off what he can bring to womenswear from his background in menswear. "Fun isn't always just about bright colors," he wrote in the show notes. "It can be about really luxurious self indulgence, which pleases the person wearing it more than anyone else." The tailoring is very strong here, as is the outerwear; slightly oversized bomber jackets are sure t...

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